Celebrations and Food in the Early 1800’s

Traditionally, immigrants and colonists in America stuck with their ancestral cuisine and cooking, and “remained rooted in the British culinary traditions…dominated by meats and breads, with very little use of fruits and green vegetables.” (“American Taste and Tradition”).  But by the early 1800’s Americans began to recognize and use local foods and to develop their own food and eating culture.  In the early 19th century, before the introduction of the stove in 1830 along with mechanized cooking techniques, families used open fireplaces to cook their meals with iron utensils.  Women did most of the cooking in the home, but when it came to cooking meat over an open flame or hot coals, as in a modern barbecue, men often took over.  This was hard dirty work that included splitting wood and tending hot coals for hours.
In the early nineteenth century, the way in which a meal was prepared and served, as well as the etiquette of guests, indicated what part of society a person belonged to.  Etiquette manuals were popular during this time and were intended for all parts of society and often symbolized the “democratization of gentility” and mobility in America(“An American Feast.  Food, Dining, and Entertainment in the United States”).  Often meals were less about the actual eating than about social order.  Everything surrounding a meal, especially elaborate dinner parties, revolved around the manners and actions of the diners.  Everything from “the invitation and response…the responsibilities of the hosts and guests, seating and arrangements… and finally the follow-up,” were important parts of the meal (“An American Feast.  Food, Dining, and Entertainment in the United States”).  These traditional mannerisms, extensive meals, and great cooking were often only experienced in wealthy households.

The actual meal typical of a wealthy household, especially on special occasions like a Thanksgiving meal and Christmas, were extensive and carefully executed.  The place settings and appearance of a dining table was important.  Menus were made for the most formal or extensive meals and included all of the dishes, the participants, and those who were to give toasts throughout the meal.  These were included to “give formality, dignity, and order to the occasion” (“An American Feast.  Food, Dining, and Entertainment in the United States”).  There was strict timing for the meals, usually about two hours was appropriate, and each dish was served as its own meal.  The feast usually started with “oysters and champagne.  Then a choice of a white or brown soup and poured sherry was offered. Then fish with Chablis. Next an entree, such as asparagus or sweet corn. Then a slice of roast (with claret and champagne). After that, perhaps a punch to freshen the palate for the courses to follow: some kind of game; salad; cheese pastry or pudding; ices and sweet dishes. Then liqueurs. Then fruit with sherry or claret. Then a selection of nuts, raisins, and sugar plums. Finally, the meal ended with wine, liqueurs, cognac, and cigars” (“An American Feast.  Food, Dining, and Entertainment in the United States”).  Although “alcoholic beverages at the dinner table were not popular,” the temperance movement was not strong until the 1830s and 1840s.  Therefore wine, champagne, and liquor was served and paired with these extensive meals.  In less wealthy households feast were cooked to be as large as possible from the ingredients that could be grown and bought locally.
    By the beginning of the 1800’s, local produce including cranberries, turnips, beets, and onions were popular along with the poultry, meat, and fish that the vegetables accompanied.  Although many holidays were celebrated elaborately, there was no holiday in New England which gave people a more general source of satisfaction and joy, than...Thanksgiving...turkeys...bacon...chickens fricassied...oyster patties...soup...vegetables...pigeons...quails...bass...wood cock...potatoes...onions...beets...cold-slaw...rice, pies...plumb puddings..." and the expectation of merriment and family that accompanied the meal (“American Historic Thanksgiving Dinner Menus”).  The expectation that Thanksgiving should be a day when “at least three dinners should be eaten in one,” and that the festivities are always better at home when the family is together made Thanksgiving feasts a memorable occasion (“American Historic Thanksgiving Dinner Menus”).

Additional Information and Menu Excerpts
 
References
Not by Bread Alone—America’s Culinary Heritage, Cornell University Library
“American Taste and Tradition”
http://rmc.library.cornell.edu/food/american_taste.htm

“An American Feast.  Food, Dining, and Entertainment in the United States.  Exhibition at the Hugh M. Morris Library, University of Delaware. http://www.lib.udel.edu/ud/spec/exhibits/american.html (June 21-September 20, 1994).
Ms. Crowen's American Lady's Cookery Book, Mrs. T. J. Crowen [Dick & Fitzgerald:New York] 1847 (p. 404-5)
The Frugal Housewife:  Or, Complete Woman Cook.http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/cookbooks/display.cfm?TitleNo=2&PageNum=18
“Historic American Thanksgiving Dinner Menus” http://www.foodtimeline.org/foodthanksgiving.html
The American Heritage Cookbook and Illustrated History of American Eating & Drinking, American Heritage Magazine [American Heritage Publishing Co.:New York] 1964 (p. 420)
“Americans at the Table—Reflections on Food an Culture” An Electronic Journal
of the U.S. Department of State (July 2004)

Lovegren, Sylvia “Long Journey Over Open Coals” An Electronic Journal
of the U.S. Department of State (July 2004)
 “Historic American Christmas Dinner Menues” http://www.foodtimeline.org/christmasmenu.html